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Top-Down Sweater Part Two



This class will be a two month class. There will be three sessions each month. You may sign up for Part One now and next month sign up for Part Two or you can choose to pay for both months at once. They are listed as separate classes to accommodate  those who wish to spread the payment over two months. The gaps between sessions are there to provide you with enough time to get to the next step of construction.  
Materials needed
Yarn:  800–1000 yds. Bulky weight yarn or 1200–1400 yds. worsted weight yarn.  I always go to the higher number.  If I have excess, I use it to make a hat and/or mittens to match.  It could also be used for another smaller/larger project.
Needles:  The size of the needles should be determined by the fabric you like…both look and feel.  You can choose to cast on 20 stitches or so, and knit in stockinette stitch for a few inches.  Scrunch it between your fingers…does it feel good?  Does the size of the stitches present the look of a fabric you like?  If the answer to both of those questions is yes, you have found your needle size.  
               1-24” circular needle for the body of the sweater
               1-60” circular needle to use for the body when the 24” needle becomes too crowded
               2-24” circular needles (one size larger than those used for the body) to use for the sleeves from the armpits down to the wrist. 
Other supplies
              Pencils
              Markers-two different colors
              Measuring tape
              Needle stoppers
              Needle to work in loose ends
              Scissors
              24” circular needle to use as a stitch holder—You can use any size circular that is smaller than the size you are using or a flexible stitch holder  
              Any additional knitnoids you usually work with.

You will be expected to have a completed gauge swatch when you come to your first class.  Complete as follows:
          1.  Using the needle you have selected for the body of your sweater, cast on 25–30 stitches.  Add 6 more stitches to accommodate a border
               for your swatch to keep it from curling.
          2.  Work 6 rows of garter stitch, ending with a wrong side (WS) row.
          3.  K3, place marker (pm), K to last 3 stitches (sts), pm, K3.  Mark this side of your work as the right side (RS) with a clip on marker.
          4.  K3, Slip marker (sm), P to last 3 stitches, sm, K3.
          5.  Repeat numbers 2 and 3 until the area to be measured (smooth side) is at least 4” from bottom border. End with a WS row.
          6.  Work 6 more rows of garter stitch to complete the top border.  Bind off on the last WS row.

I usually keep my gauge swatches.  I have used them as pockets, wash cloths, doll blankets—when I get enough of them, under house plants that I set on wood tables, etc.  You can decide what you want to do.  If you want to use the yarn in your swatch in your sweater, don’t bind off—leave it on the needle, but please have the top border completed.  It makes measuring gauge more accurate.

I look forward to seeing you at our 1st class.  Have fun knitting.


Skill Level: Intermediate
Skill Details: Must be able to knit, purl, increase, decrease, etc.
Instructor: Annie Berry
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